Venice: A decaying beauty

This past week the world watched as an icon of France and the western world went up in flames. Thankfully it was only partially lost and the majority of the art and relics were saved for future generations to see.

Watching the partial destruction of this beautiful place as well as other places destroyed by war, environmental change, and human destruction has gotten me thinking about other places I’ve been and want to go back to or hope to take my kids to experience. The realization that they might not be there to go to hit hard as I watched the flames topple the spire of Notre Dame. 

One place that instantly came to mind is Venice, Italy. This floating city might not seem like a favorite of mine. Packed with tourists, often smelly canals, and the high price tag (especially around the main square), but this decaying city holds some magic that makes it exciting and romantic. 

Perhaps it is the history as a Silk Roads hub and the remnants of its time as a great and wealthy city. Or the lack of automobile traffic that clogs most other major cities. Or the less traversed bridges and alleys that you can get lost in, but never really get too far from home base. Once you get past Piazza San Marco and the surrounding area there is a whole city undiscovered by most visitors.

St Mark’s Square

Don’t get me wrong, St Mark’s is worth a visit, but go early in the morning before the throng of tourists on day trips fill it to the brim and wander back in the evening after a leisurely dinner to see this beautiful space. During the day go with a guide for an insider’s tour.

I highly recommend Walks of Italy. We have used them in every city we’ve been in Italy and in my past life as a travel consultant I recommended them to all of my clients. Their half day Legendary Venice tour is the way to go. You skip the long lines and get special access to the balcony for a great view of the majestic bronze horses. The tour also includes a skip the line trip to the Doge palace and a walk through the Bridge of Sighs while most of the crowds are trying to jockey for spot to look at it from the outside.

Gondolas

It might seem cliche for a trip to Venice, but in this city of canals it is an interesting way to see the city and an undeniable part of the city’s history. For an enjoyable ride avoid the Grand Canal which is overpriced and congested. Stick to lesser-known canals such as Rio della Panada and other small back routes. As your hotel concierge to set up a ride for you sticking to the lesser used canals and set the price ahead of time. 

Querini Stampalia Museum

This gorgeous house museum has been open since 1869 and presents visitors with a collection of furniture, sculptures, paintings, and other fixings of the Querini Stampalia family’s life. 

Campo Santa Margherita

Located near the university, this square is an unassuming place filled with shops, small restaurants, and a much more local feel than the more crowded areas. During the day you will find the square filled with market stands and shade trees to enjoy a bite under. After dark, it becomes the center of nightlife for the locals with plenty of bars and restaurants full of the lively sounds of Venetian conversation filling the air.

Rialto market 

If you love food you need to go to this market piled high with produce and local fish. Head over at opening time (7:30am) to see fisherman still unloading their catch and produce sellers stacking their wares. Early morning is also the time the city’s restauranteurs and local citizens head to the market to stock their kitchens.

Located near the famous Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal, the market can get quite busy with tourists as lunch time approaches so make this your first stop of the day. Besides, you can get a good look at the bridge before the throngs of day trippers crowd it.

Above all else . . . simply wander and get lost to truly experience Venice as it should be.