72 hours in Florence: The essentials

Since the first time I stepped foot in Italy nearly 15 years ago I knew I was in love. Some places have spoken to me more than others and a recent trip to Florence might have been the most touching so far. We spent a whole week wandering the compact city, but I know most people experience Florence in only two or three days so I have crammed some of the highlights into a three-day option.

Day 1

Walking tour of Florence with Accademia entrance

Florence is a city of statues, churches, and a lot of history. As the birthplace of the Renaissance there are a lot of stories hidden in plain sight, but you need an expert to point them out. One of my favorite activities in a new city is to do a walking tour the first day. This gives you the lay of the land, shows you many of the highlights, and if you get a good guide will get you some recommendations for other places to visit and where to eat.  

Our Walks of Italy private tour was a fantastic option and even included entry to the Accademia. The David is breathtaking, but the other pieces are just as gorgeous and some of them have equally interesting backstories.

Walks of Italy: https://www.walksofitaly.com/

Duomo

This massive dome is the symbol of Florence for most travelers and the long lines support that. This beautiful building is worth a visit, but I have a few tips for making the most of your time. First, pre-book your tickets online and while on-site reserve a time to climb to the top of the dome. The church itself is free to enter so the lines can be extremely long. However, if you go into to climb the 463 steps to the top you will get a glimpse of the interior in the process.  

The interior is pretty dark and almost the complete opposite of the bright opulent exterior. However, the climb to the top is well worth the workout and the tight spots. Once you are atop the dome you have a clear view of Florence and the surrounding countryside and it is breathtaking. If you have a health condition or are claustrophobic I highly recommend skipping the climb.  

Along with entry to the dome, your ticket allows you entry to the Duomo museum which is the other reason I would skip the wait in line to see the interior. A visit to the exhibits offers you much more insight to the church. You will get to see the statues that decorate the exterior in much more detail, learn about the construction of the dome (which is still today a marvel of architecture), and gain some insight into the role the building has played in the history of Florence.  

Your ticket is good for 72 hours so I would spread out your visit to the other two sites included with admission – the campanile de Giotto and the baptistry. Come at opening to visit these two sites to avoid the crowds and get a better look. The climb to the top of the bell tower offers good views of the city and is fewer steps than the Duomo. We did both and enjoyed them immensely.

Il Grande Museo del Duomo: https://www.museumflorence.com/
Piazza del Duomo
Via della Canonica, 1

Caffe Rivoire – Piazza dellaSignoria

After climbing all those steps you are probably a little parched and hungry. Walk a short distance from the Duomo to Caffe Rivoire for a delicious cappucino and treat. Begun in 1872 by the chocolatier of the Savoy royal family, you can’t go wrong with anything chocolaty. It is also a great place for a cocktail or glass of wine to celebrate your climbing accomplishment. And if you nab a table outside you could spend the whole afternoon people watching, but there is more to do and see.

Caffe Rivoire : http://www.rivoire.it/en/
Piazza della Signoria
Via Vacchereccia 4/r

Il Desco

This organic restaurant offers seasonally based menus featuring products from the owner’s family farm in the Tuscan hills. The farm to table concept is beautifully executed with the delicious food even accompanied by wines made by local small producers.

Il Desco: http://www.ildescofirenze.it/
Via Cavour 27

Day 2

Boboli Gardens

Florence is a very compact city covered mostly in stone so the Boboli Gardens are a beautiful natural oasis in the middle of the city. They are also rich with history and art as the former gardens of the ruling family, the Medici. The flowers were in full bloom when we were there and it was breathtaking. We got there right at opening (8:30am) and pretty much had the grounds to ourselves for an hour or so. You could literally get lost in the maze of walkways, fountains, and flower gardens.  

Boboli Gardens: https://www.visitflorence.com/florence-museums/boboli-gardens.html

Piazza Pitti

In front of the Boboli Gardens sits the Piazza Pitti and the massive palace that once belonged to the Medici. If you don’t spend all day in the gardens you should consider visiting the interior of the palace (a seperate ticket from the gardens) to get a glimpse into the life of this once powerful family. Besides vast art collections, you can check out the treasury of the grand dukes, 19th-century furniture, and the museum of costume and fashion which houses over 6,000 items used in period movies and shows as well as rare 16th century pieces actually worn by some of the Medici family.  

Piazza Pitti: https://www.visitflorence.com/florence-museums/pitti-palace.html

Ponte Vecchio and the Arno

Besides the Duomo Florence is synonymous with the Ponte Vecchio. This beautiful enclosed bridge was the only bridge in Florence until 1218 and somehow was the only bridge to survive World War II. The former home of the town butchers, it now houses gold and jewelry shops that have made Florence famous as well. Of course, there would be no Florence without the Arno river which the Ponte Vecchio spans. A leisurely walk along the banks gives you great views of all of the bridges of Florence and the waters that make Tuscany possible.

Le Volpi e l’Uva

This little wine bar tucked away off the Ponte Vecchio is one of the top wine bars in Italy. The menu is made up of local pours from small passionate producers that you cannot find anywhere else. The staff is well versed in all of the wines and food so feel comfortable leaving your dining options up to them. This is a true wine bar when it comes to food. You won’t find full entrees, but you can certainly fill yourself up nibbling on the delicious cheese and meat plates as well as the unforgettable crostini. If the melted lardo and asiago crostini is on the menu do not pass it up! Reservations are highly recommended as seating is very limited.  

Le Volpi e L’uva: https://www.levolpieluva.com/

Piazza dei Rossi, 1

La Carraia

While not an old gelato shop it is definitely a good one. This spot was recommended to us by our Walks of Italy guide and we went several times during our stay. It offers a variety of flavors that we didn’t always see at other shops and because it isn’t right in one of the main tourist areas it tended to be less busy and full of more locals.

La Carraia: http://www.lacarraiagroup.eu/eng/ 

Piazza Nazario Sauro 25/r  

Babtistry

This little octagon is oldest building in the city. Go early to view doors without crowds. We got fantastic pictures of the whole piazza before the crowds descended. This stop can be done quickly on the way to your next stop.  

Il Grande Museo del Duomo:  https://www.museumflorence.com/ 
Piazza del Duomo
Via della Canonica, 1

Mercato Centrale

As a lover of all things culinary this was probably my favorite stop in Florence. Go early in the morning to see the first level traditional market stands. The building, which was build in 1874 has been remodeled to contain a food hall on the top floor, but the real gem for any foodie is the first level full of fresh vegetables, fruits, artisan meats and cheeses and anything else a true Italian chef could want.  

Mercato Centrale: http://www.mercatocentrale.it/en/
Piazza del Mercato Centrale – Via dell’Ariento

Basilica di Santa Croce and the School of Leather

When it comes to historical figures this beautiful basilica can’t be beat. As the burial place of Michelangelo, Machiavelli, and Galileo Galilei it is a place of intellectual pilgrimage. With construction of the current building beginning in the 1290s it has seen its share of history and art. The interior walls include frescoes from famous artists such as Gaddi and Donatello and even a monument to Dante. Besides art the area is well known for its leather and this historical building houses the world renowned School of Leather. Even if you aren’t planning on splurging on a piece a walk through the studio space is well worth the time.  

Basilica di Santa Croce: http://www.santacroceopera.it/en/
Piazza Santa Croce, 16

Piazzale Michelangelo

It is a bit of a climb up to this spot, but the views are fantastic especially if you opted out of the climb up the campanile or duomo. There is a beautiful flower garden to stop off in along the route if you need a break. This stop doesn’t take much time so it could be a perfect pit stop before heading off to apertivo.

Piazzale Michelangelo: https://www.visitflorence.com/florence-monuments/piazzale-michelangelo.html

O’Munaciello

This local favorite serves up Tuscan classics and Neapolitan pies in an ancient 17th century convent. With friendly staff and a candle lit, but relaxed atmosphere it is the perfect place to spend several hours over a few glasses of wine and three or four courses. You also never know who is going to pop in for a meal. When we were there the former prime minister of Italy sat down for a pizza. Reservations are highly recommended.

O’Munaciello: http://www.munaciello.com/?page_id=25&lang=en 
Via Maffia, 31r

The Bronze Boar

Like the Trevi Fountain in Rome this monument brings return visits to the beautiful city. Now located at the Mercato Nuovo this bronze pig is a copy of the original that was originally made in the 1600s, but was rubbed so much for good luck that its snout wore through. Be sure to rub the snout for your own good luck and legend has it that if you place a coin in its mouth and it falls out with the water and into the grate below you will be sure to return to Florence. The coins now go to charity so really what do you have to lose?!?

Il Porcelino: Piazza del Mercato Nuovo  

If you’ve got the time I highly recommend taking more time in this beautiful city. You really need to wander aimlessly and stumble upon the sculptures, ancient buildings, and natural art that dots the birthplace of the Renaissance.